(A journey which will always be very special to me for varied reasons. It was fun revisiting the memorable parts of my trip to Darjeeling, about two years back, and penning it down. Hope I did justice to it. I would be presenting the experience of my trip in two separate posts. Here is the first one.)
The commencement of the journey
It was only
the second time that I had been inside the Sealdah station in Kolkata. Having
travelled all my life from the bustling Howrah station, it took me some time to
adjust to the ‘alien’ surroundings here. For me, a railway station in Kolkata simply
meant the Howrah station. Thus, adjusting to the look and feel of the Sealdah
wasn’t quite easy. Added to it was the fact that the crowd, even at 6 in the
evening, was quite moderate. I was waiting for my train, which would take me to New Jalpaiguri (a place near Siliguri in North
Bengal). I was accompanied by my friend,
who was also my colleague at my workplace, and together we were to take an
official trip to the hills of Darjeeling.
The words
‘official trip’ and Darjeeling rarely go together, but fortunately for us, it
was true. We were to cover the Darjeeling Zoo for a story I was to write and my
friend, as the videographer, was assigned the task of making a short
documentary on it. We were to reach Darjeeling the next day; get our work done
and leave the day after. Since the day the trip had been approved by our
bosses, we had been the objects of much envy at our workplace and which quite
frankly, really pleased me to no end.
The last few
days had been expectedly quite exciting, as the lead up to any unknown place
usually is for me. This was the first time I would be travelling to Darjeeling.
I had only heard of its stunning beauty and serenity from my kith and kin. It
was rather strange; residing in Bengal I never really got the opportunity to
visit Darjeeling before this despite hearing so much about it. However, all of
this was about to come to an end as I would finally be reaching Darjeeling the
next day. Me and my friend, who like me would be visiting the place for the
first time, had excitedly munched down some heavy food from a station
restaurant a few minutes ago and were now eagerly awaiting the train’s arrival
at the platform.
After some
minutes of impatient waiting, where I strolled around the platform innumerable
times, we finally saw the train chugging into the platform at around 6.20 pm. There
was the usual mad scurry to get into train compartments by the people but before
we got suffocated by the crowd, we quickly settled into our seats and patiently
waited for the journey to begin.
**
Ratatat chhahh…Ratatat chhahh… The train sped across the Bengal terrain
and brought with it cold and bitter wind.
Despite it being only late October, I snuggled under my warm blanket and
stared blankly at the train ceiling. It
seemed as if I could hear the simultaneous breathing of everyone in the bogie. It
was past midnight now and lying down on the upper berth, I found it hard to go
to sleep. First there was the tension of my luggage which lay under the lower
berth and made me look down every other minute and second there was the anxiety
of the trip itself. There was the usual thrill associated with discovering a
new place which was so renowned and then there was the nervousness if I would
get the task assigned to me done efficiently.
Ratatat chhahh…Ratatat chhahh…
I looked
over at my friend, who was sound asleep with his mouth half open. “What must he be dreaming of? Is he as nervous and excited as I am?” I wondered. There were so many things that could have gone
wrong in the trip, I suddenly reflected. We could get no hotels, the zoo could
be closed, and this train could meet with an accident even as we all slept.
I shuddered
and forced myself out of the negative thoughts and concentrated on the ceiling
fan above me which made a light buzzing sound. The blades were hardly visible
in the darkness and yet I lost myself in its constant revolutions. Ratatat chhahh…Ratatat chhahh… The hum
of the wheels now seemed like a cradle and I was finally lulled into sleep.
Arrival at NJP
The
vibration of the phone in my pocket woke me up from my slumber. It was the
buzzing of my cell phone’s alarm which was set for 6 in the morning. I took out
the phone and realizing that it was 6 I muttered a “shit” under my breath. The
New Jalpaiguri station was hardly 15 minutes away and the train would halt for
just 10 minutes there. We hence didn’t have much time left to get ready. I
turned to my friend who was now lying face down and fast asleep, even as his
own mobile alarm kept on buzzing repeatedly. I shook him a couple of times, but
it seemed that he was determined to sleep till the end of the journey. Not
wanting to waste anymore time, I kicked him on his shin. That thankfully
worked.

He woke up
with a start and frowned at me; as if accusing me of committing a heinous
crime. “NJP is hardly 10 minutes away. Get your ass off,” I informed him. He
checked his watch and realized the truth in my statement. We got down and
immediately set about unlocking our luggage from underneath the seats. It
seemed then that all the passengers of the train had woken up now and were excitedly
chattering away. Hardly had we brushed our teeth and settled into our seats
again that we felt the train slowing down; we were entering the NJP station. I
checked my watch: 6.20 am. Right on time!
There was
the usual mad rush of the crowd getting out of the train as we got down at the
platform. It appeared as if almost more than half of the passengers of the
train had emptied at NJP, whose final destination was Guwahati.
We scampered
out of the station and began looking for cars outside. A lot of our friends and
relatives, who had been to this place, had informed us that we would find
innumerable cars and buses outside the station which would be willing to take
us to Darjeeling. And sure enough, right outside the station gates we found an
array of vehicles, mostly Sumos, clamouring loudly to get our attention. The
idea of a two hour bus ride didn’t quite thrill me and hence I was determined
to get a Sumo, which was ideal for a tall person like me.
After
speaking to a few drivers we finally zeroed in on one who offered a reasonable
rate: 200 bucks per person for a two hour journey. The Sumo, which would have
6-7 more passengers apart from the two of us, looked decent and we gave our
luggage to a guy who packed it firmly at the top of the car along with that of
the others. The journey to Darjeeling would start at 7.30 am which meant we had
an hour to while around.
We suddenly
realized how hungry we were and hence went about scavenging for some food to
eat. With some cakes and biscuits in hands, we sat on a vacant seat outside the
station premises. As I waited for the hour to get over I glanced around at the
surroundings. New Jalpaiguri didn’t really seem that different from Kolkata,
neither the people nor the ambience; except for the fact that there were a lot
more tourists here for obvious reasons. NJP is the perfect and the most well-known
connector for anyone who wishes to get into Darjeeling.
My friend
was lost in his own thoughts as he munched at the biscuits mechanically. I meanwhile
looked at the people everywhere who were madly scurrying around to get into
vehicles which would take them to the famous hill station. I wondered how many
of them would be visiting the place the first time like us. Would they have the
same excitement as me? Would they be as nervous as I was? I would never know.
Towards Darjeeling
The cool
wind slapped my face as I gazed outside the window of the moving car. We had
just begun our journey towards Darjeeling and the streets were rapidly getting
vacant as we surged ahead. I, along with my friend, was sitting on the front
seat with the driver. There was bubbling anticipation in my heart as to what
lay ahead.
However,
what I hadn’t anticipated was having to face the steep, hilly terrain that the
car had to pass through in order to get into Darjeeling. Now, I am one of those
people who are quite apprehensive of heights. I have had horrible experiences
in my past of riding through some really high mountains and getting scared shit
of looking down the ravines. A similar experience awaited me now.
The car,
after having left Siliguri, was now entering into what seemed like a never
ending hilly roadway. My insides squirmed as I couldn’t help but look down. What
didn’t help was that my friend was even worse than I was in handling these
steep hills. “God, look at how deep those ravines are,” he said in utter fear.
“What if the car skids and we all fall down,” he mumbled again. “I don’t want
to die now. I don’t want to die now,” he kept adding after every few seconds. The
driver, who by now had sensed our fear, reassured us in his typical North-eastern
accent, “Kuss ni hogaa. Saant rakko.” (Nothing will happen. Be calm.) He had
apparently made hundreds of trips like this and never ever had had an accident.
I had just started feeling a little relaxed when I saw an overturned car lying
down in the bushes. I immediately lost all faith in the driver.
And then
there was this 50- something ‘uncle’ sitting behind who had been to Darjeeling
plentiful times and had never been scared of these hills. “Arre you are so
young. What’s to be scared?” he said with a super confident chuckle. “When I
was your age, I had easily walked my way up these very mountains once,” he declared
pompously and looked on at the other people in the car; waiting for them to
probably burst out in applause at his achievement. However, no one it seemed
was remotely interested in his remark. While many were fast asleep, the others
looked out the window. You will always find these highly annoying ‘uncles’
everywhere; who are know-it-alls and have been there done that. I merely smiled
weakly at him and then looked out again. Those gorges just looked so precipitous.
I kept having flashes where I was tumbling down with the car in those deep
ravines. My head lay crushed by hitting one of the rocks, while a particularly
sharp one had gorged through my chest and blood oozed all over my body.
I closed my
eyes to stop these horrifying visions and turned away from the window. Lowering
my head and closing my eyes, I tried my best to fight the impending sickness
which was overflowing in me. “I will not die here,” I silently prayed. “I will
die a writer... I will die a writer...”
**
I breathed
in the fresh air standing at the edge of a small cliff overlooking the
beautiful town of Mirik. We were in an area called Krishnanagar, which was
known as being the entrance to Mirik.
The car had
stopped for a few minutes here as the driver needed to get some water for the
car. All the inhabitants of the car were now strolling outside the vehicle and
stretching their bodies after the hour long journey we had made thus far. My
friend, like me, was standing beside me and was stunned at the sight which lay in
front of us. This was unlike anything I had ever seen in Bengal. The pine-clad
hillsides made for such an extraordinary view that all my sickness from a few
minutes ago seemed to have vanished. The fragrance of the fresh grass had
rejuvenated me and I was now eagerly looking forward to what lay ahead for us.
It was at
this point I realized how different this place was from Kolkata. Be it the
structure of people’s homes or their looks. While most of the cottages and huts
were similarly shaped and looked quite clean, the people bore the distinctive
North-eastern looks.
As I turned,
I suddenly caught a little girl staring at me from the window of her small hut
which stood nearby. She looked like one of those cute characters in the
Japanese anime films, and was probably fascinated by the tall ‘alien’ creature
standing in front of her house. I smiled at her. The girl seemed unsure on how
to react for a few seconds and then finally smiled back.
“All right,
get into the car everyone,” hollered the driver all of a sudden and brought me
back to reality. We quickly settled into our seats and prepared for the final
leg of the journey. As I slammed the car door shut, I looked back at the window
of the hut. The girl was gone.
**
I had always
seen tea-plantation workers in pictures and documentaries. Hence, it was quite
a sight to see a group of these workers going about their business casually, as
our car passed through a tea-plantation site. Clad in their characteristic
dress; the scarves neatly tied over their head and baskets hanging from their
backs, they worked in a very orderly manner without even bothering to glance at
us. I however, wanted to sit and observe them some more, but was denied that
opportunity as we had to move towards our destination.
**
After riding
for another half an hour through the hilly terrain, we entered what seemed like
another small yet lovely looking town. The driver informed us that this was
Ghoom, a tiny locality in the Darjeeling Himalayan hill region, which was
famous for its scenic beauty. The road
we were passing through was the Hill Cart Road, which was the common route
taken by cars and buses travelling from Siliguri to Darjeeling. For some
reason, I noted, the road was glistening with moist water and the air was misty.
The driver cleared my confusion when he said, “It has been raining since the
last few days in this part of the hills.”
In the
little time I got to observe the area, I noticed that it was bubbling with
life. People were busy chatting, shopping for vegetables and doing other stuff.
I then noticed that there was quite a crowd outside a store selling woolen
garments. I was quite tempted to join them and try out some of the fancy
looking jackets they were selling, but had to curb my feelings.
Some of the
people in the car then informed us that Darjeeling is hardly 6 kms away now. Feeling
elated at the news, I tried to look beyond the marketplace we were passing
through. I could see mountains, resplendent in verdant grass, in the
background. My heart pounded in excitement at the prospect of what awaited me
ahead.
Entering the Queen of hills
There was a
real chill in the air as we noticed our surroundings changing slowly. The rain
over the last few days coupled with the place’s general location, resulted in
bitterly cold winds smothering our faces. Even inhaling the cold air was
causing me much discomfort, but I faced it all quite happily. The car turned
over another bend in the road and then I finally saw it.
There it
was; the ‘Queen of Hills’ as it is renowned for. The hills of Darjeeling looked
so picturesquely perfect that I felt like floating around those mountains and remain
there for my entire life. White, fluffy clouds hovered around the hills which
were covered with lush green trees. For a second it seemed time had come to an
absolute standstill as everyone in the car feasted their eyes on the stunning
beauty in front of them. All my friend could mutter was a “Wow” as he admired
the surroundings with wide-eyes. It was a scene straight out of a romantic song
from a Bollywood movie. It was something which would turn dull people into
romantics. I for one, wanted to write some poetic lines which would do justice
to the scene ahead of me. Unfortunately though, I wasn’t particularly good in
that department and chose instead to relish the spectacular landscape.

Beyond the
hills we could now clearly see the city of Darjeeling towards which we were
heading. The myriad buildings of different colours and shapes slowly started to
grow bigger with each passing minute as we hurtled closer to the city.
Finally, the
hilly pathway now gave way to normal city roads and I knew that we had arrived
at our destination. As if just to approve of my thoughts, a Toy Train, the
celebrated symbol of Darjeeling, slowly whistled by at a little distance from
us. My heart gladdened with joy and I
desperately yearned to get a seat in that train. However, now was not the time
for that.
A few
minutes later, in which I had managed to catch a glimpse of the local market
and a mall, the car stopped at what was apparently the main city junction. I
got down from the car and stretched my long legs. We were surrounded by hotels,
small restaurants and guest houses. I wanted to explore some more and look at
what lay beyond those small lanes leading ahead. But my friend then thumped me
on my back and said, “Let’s get going. We have a long day ahead.”
Indeed. We
had a long day lying ahead of us. As we walked towards a hotel, I checked my
watch; it was 9.30 am. I found it a little hard to believe that only two hours
had passed since the time we had boarded the Sumo from NJP. It really seemed
like several hours had passed in between the various happenings of the journey.
Something
however told me that the adventure had just begun.
To be concluded
(To read the second and final part of this post, click here.)